Making a Cutting Board---Step by Step
Sept 10, 2022 18:02:10 GMT -6
heavyhitterokra, hedgeapple, and 2 more like this
Post by woodeye on Sept 10, 2022 18:02:10 GMT -6
Just like the nameplates, there are numerous ways to make cutting boards. This method works well for me, so I've adopted it as my default method. On this cutting board I'll be using Black Walnut & Hard Maple. I start with one board of each, 5"x47"x13/16". Cut each board into 3 equal pieces, each piece will be approximately 15-1/2" long. Next, rip each piece to approximately 1-3/16" width. The pieces will stand on edge when used in the cutting board, so the width of the strips determines the approximate thickness of the cutting board. This cutting board requires 9 strips of Walnut, and 5 strips of Maple. Two of the Walnut strips will be ripped again, but set on edge before ripping. One strip of Maple will ripped again, but set on edge before ripping. Thus, after all the ripping cuts, there will be 17 total strips. The second set of strips that were ripped on their edge will go through the wood planer so that each piece will be 1/4" thick. Here is the order of the pieces: (Maple) (1/4"Walnut) (1/4"Maple) (1/4"Walnut) (Maple) (7 strips Walnut) (Maple) (1/4"Walnut) (1/4"Maple) (1/4"Walnut) (Maple).
STEP #1 Mark the 2 boards so that each makes 3 pieces of equal length.
STEP #2 I use the miter saw to cut the pieces.
STEP #3 Now I have 6 pieces of equal length.
STEP #4 Rip the 6 boards into strips 1-3/16" wide. I use a bandsaw for this to save wood since the blade is much thinner than the table saw blade.
STEP #5 Rip 2 strips of Walnut & 1 strip of Maple in half, with strips standing on edge.
STEP #6 Run the thin strips made in STEP #5 through the planer, bandsaw cut marks up, the planer removes those. Thickness is now 1/4".
STEP #7 Cutting complete, here are the strips that the 2 boards made.
STEP #8 Select the strips that you would like, put them together to see sort of what it will eventually look like.
STEP #9 Vacuum any dust off the pieces, get everything ready to glue.
STEP #10 Apply glue to each strip, put in place, then slide strip back and forth to make sure the glue makes good contact with both strips.
STEP #11 Use 3 pipe clamps, cauls keep the boards flat, and 4 F-style clamps to keep the cauls from moving. Tighten cauls 1st, then pipe clamps.
STEP #12 One day later. Remove clamps, use a belt sander w/30 grit belt to remove dried glue, this helps keep the planer from cutter damage.
STEP #13 Not really a step, this is how it looks before running it through the wood planer.
STEP #14 Run it through the thickness planer several times to flatten it on both sides.
STEP #15 Square both ends using the miter saw.
STEP #16 Use a belt sander with a 100 or 120 grit belt, sand both sides of the board.
STEP #17 Use a random orbital sander with a 160 grit disc, sand both sides.
STEP #18 Sand the 2 long edges with a bench sander.
STEP #19 Sand the 2 ends with a bench sander.
STEP #20 On the router table, I use a Whiteside 45 degree chamfer bit. Route all edges on both sides.
STEP #21 Choose the best looking side for the top, mark for the rubber feet on the bottom of the cutting board.
STEP #22 Bath time. I let them stay in the Food Safe Mineral Oil for at least 30 minutes.
STEP #23 Squeegee off the excess mineral oil, then wipe off excess with a cloth. Let dry for at least a day.
STEP #24 & #25 The rubber feet have been installed & The 1st coat of conditioner has been applied on all surfaces.
STEP #1 Mark the 2 boards so that each makes 3 pieces of equal length.
STEP #2 I use the miter saw to cut the pieces.
STEP #3 Now I have 6 pieces of equal length.
STEP #4 Rip the 6 boards into strips 1-3/16" wide. I use a bandsaw for this to save wood since the blade is much thinner than the table saw blade.
STEP #5 Rip 2 strips of Walnut & 1 strip of Maple in half, with strips standing on edge.
STEP #6 Run the thin strips made in STEP #5 through the planer, bandsaw cut marks up, the planer removes those. Thickness is now 1/4".
STEP #7 Cutting complete, here are the strips that the 2 boards made.
STEP #8 Select the strips that you would like, put them together to see sort of what it will eventually look like.
STEP #9 Vacuum any dust off the pieces, get everything ready to glue.
STEP #10 Apply glue to each strip, put in place, then slide strip back and forth to make sure the glue makes good contact with both strips.
STEP #11 Use 3 pipe clamps, cauls keep the boards flat, and 4 F-style clamps to keep the cauls from moving. Tighten cauls 1st, then pipe clamps.
STEP #12 One day later. Remove clamps, use a belt sander w/30 grit belt to remove dried glue, this helps keep the planer from cutter damage.
STEP #13 Not really a step, this is how it looks before running it through the wood planer.
STEP #14 Run it through the thickness planer several times to flatten it on both sides.
STEP #15 Square both ends using the miter saw.
STEP #16 Use a belt sander with a 100 or 120 grit belt, sand both sides of the board.
STEP #17 Use a random orbital sander with a 160 grit disc, sand both sides.
STEP #18 Sand the 2 long edges with a bench sander.
STEP #19 Sand the 2 ends with a bench sander.
STEP #20 On the router table, I use a Whiteside 45 degree chamfer bit. Route all edges on both sides.
STEP #21 Choose the best looking side for the top, mark for the rubber feet on the bottom of the cutting board.
STEP #22 Bath time. I let them stay in the Food Safe Mineral Oil for at least 30 minutes.
STEP #23 Squeegee off the excess mineral oil, then wipe off excess with a cloth. Let dry for at least a day.
STEP #24 & #25 The rubber feet have been installed & The 1st coat of conditioner has been applied on all surfaces.