Making a Wooden Nameplate--Step by Step--DRY CREEK FARM
Sept 5, 2022 21:10:03 GMT -6
heavyhitterokra, rdback, and 2 more like this
Post by woodeye on Sept 5, 2022 21:10:03 GMT -6
I started making nameplates earlier this year, only as a break from other projects. They are a fun project, & I'm certain there are better ways to make them But this is how I make them and for the most part this method works well. The text has to be either transferred to the wood, or a pattern needs to be attached. I opted for the pattern method. I've used double sided clear adhesive sheets for attaching the letter pattern, but it is more expensive and does not work as well as the clear repositional shelf liner that I currently use. It's available at Walmart and is inexpensive. I use a Bucktool 16" scrollsaw, a Pegas #5 MGT scroll saw blade, rulers, pencils, Aleene's Repositional glue, scotch tape, shipping tape, tri-square, drill press, cordless drill, forstner bit, tapered screw bit, regular bit, laser printer, blank paper, needle files, exacto knife, scissors, sandpaper sheet, bench sander, Watco Danish Oil natural, brush, Rustoleum Clear Coat, Titebond wood glue, screw hole plugs, stainless steel screws, router table, router bit. The last 2 steps will be added to this post, but will be later this week. Also, I will edit/add any other information needed to this post. Lastly, ANYONE can learn to make these. I would like to make a step by step process of the cutting boards that I make. I would also like to make a step by step for the coaster sets. I plan to start making walking sticks again on a limited basis, I'd like to post about those at a later time.
STEP #1--Print the Name or Phrase desired, underlined. I use Cooper Black font size 130
STEP #2--If there is more than one word, cut and align the underlines. Use a long ruler to align all parts, tape all parts together. Mark bottom of letters all the way across nameplate. Use clear shipping tape to tape over letter, front and back.
STEP #3--Mark ends of wood 1/2" from bottom on both sides. Cut clear shelf paper to size of wood piece, peel off paper backing.
STEP #4--Apply clear shelf paper to wood piece.
STEP #5--Apply coat of Aleene's Repositional glue with a brush, allow to dry about 15 minutes
STEP #6--The pencil points to the location of the bottom of the letters. Disregard line to the right of pencil. That was an oops.
STEP #7--Apply pattern to wood piece.
STEP #8--Drill holes in letters or numbers that have "inside" cuts that cannot be cut from outside with the scroll saw. The scroll saw blade will go through these holes to make the cut. Will be seen in STEP #10.
STEP #9--Saw out all the letters. With my scroll saw, I have to saw from both ends of the nameplate if it is a long nameplate like this one.
STEP #10--Loosen top of scroll saw blade, thread blade through hole, install blade again, saw inside portion of letter, repeat for each letter or number that has inside portions that have to be sawed.
STEP #11--Sawing is complete, peel off pattern
STEP #12--Sand each side on bench sander
STEP #13--Use 45 degree chamfer bit in router, route top edge of base part.
STEP #14--Drill holes in bottom of base for mounting screws and rubber feet.
STEP #15--Sand with manual pad sander, sanding sheet, needle files, etc.
STEP #16--Letters installed to base (just a different view of STEP #16)
STEP #16--Screws inserted after applying glue between letters and base
STEP #17--Screw hole plugs glued and sanded in bottom of base. Temporary screws put in rubber feet mounting holes, for oiling and spraying clear coat.
STEP #18--Ready for Watco Danish Oil
STEP #19--Watco Danish Oil applied, allow to dry at least 2 days, before using tack cloth to remove dust, then spray with clear coat.
STEP #20--Clear Coat 3 coats
STEP #21--Install Rubber Feet
It is DONE
STEP #1--Print the Name or Phrase desired, underlined. I use Cooper Black font size 130
STEP #2--If there is more than one word, cut and align the underlines. Use a long ruler to align all parts, tape all parts together. Mark bottom of letters all the way across nameplate. Use clear shipping tape to tape over letter, front and back.
STEP #3--Mark ends of wood 1/2" from bottom on both sides. Cut clear shelf paper to size of wood piece, peel off paper backing.
STEP #4--Apply clear shelf paper to wood piece.
STEP #5--Apply coat of Aleene's Repositional glue with a brush, allow to dry about 15 minutes
STEP #6--The pencil points to the location of the bottom of the letters. Disregard line to the right of pencil. That was an oops.
STEP #7--Apply pattern to wood piece.
STEP #8--Drill holes in letters or numbers that have "inside" cuts that cannot be cut from outside with the scroll saw. The scroll saw blade will go through these holes to make the cut. Will be seen in STEP #10.
STEP #9--Saw out all the letters. With my scroll saw, I have to saw from both ends of the nameplate if it is a long nameplate like this one.
STEP #10--Loosen top of scroll saw blade, thread blade through hole, install blade again, saw inside portion of letter, repeat for each letter or number that has inside portions that have to be sawed.
STEP #11--Sawing is complete, peel off pattern
STEP #12--Sand each side on bench sander
STEP #13--Use 45 degree chamfer bit in router, route top edge of base part.
STEP #14--Drill holes in bottom of base for mounting screws and rubber feet.
STEP #15--Sand with manual pad sander, sanding sheet, needle files, etc.
STEP #16--Letters installed to base (just a different view of STEP #16)
STEP #16--Screws inserted after applying glue between letters and base
STEP #17--Screw hole plugs glued and sanded in bottom of base. Temporary screws put in rubber feet mounting holes, for oiling and spraying clear coat.
STEP #18--Ready for Watco Danish Oil
STEP #19--Watco Danish Oil applied, allow to dry at least 2 days, before using tack cloth to remove dust, then spray with clear coat.
STEP #20--Clear Coat 3 coats
STEP #21--Install Rubber Feet
It is DONE