Just completed reading through this thread; very interesting & educational. Someone early in the thread quoted my comments posted on another board, regarding the way that I & others have used bitter melon. Eggs & tomatoes complement bitter melon in recipes.... and I have a recipe (posted by someone on another board) for a bitter melon casserole. Never tried juicing it, though... and since I grow large quantities each year, I'm looking forward to trying that. The wife (despite my urging) still refuses to eat bitter melon more than occasionally - except when pickled. Can't blame her, I guess... wait, I CAN blame her, since she was the reason I grew it in the first place.
I plan to pickle a lot this year.
Regarding bitter melon germination... most of the varieties I've tried had poor germination in the original seed, to the point where I assumed that was a common trait for the species. It didn't seem to matter whether I nicked the seed coat or not. However, soil temperature DOES matter. I have a temperature-controlled germination chamber that I use for warm-weather seeds, set to 80 degrees F. At that temperature, bitter melon germinates in about 10 days. Germination from my saved seed was much better, and from the varieties that have been saved for several generations, has become very reliable. Last year, both of the varieties I grew (started in peat pots, with soil-less mix) had nearly 100% germination.
You can separate mature seeds from the red gel by rubbing under running water - or in a bucket of water. If you do so, use the float separation method, which works for most seed that is harvested wet. Immediately after cleaning, place the seeds in a container of water, and stir them gently with a wire whisk to release any remaining debris or clinging air bubbles. The good seeds sink to the bottom; the bad seeds & debris float. Occasionally, the seeds may need to soak for a short period before they sink; try this if little to no seed sinks initially. Gently pour off the floating debris (refilling with water if necessary) until only the seed that sank remains. Strain & dry that seed quickly, preferably under a fan.
You can also save remarkably clean seed by spreading the freshly harvested seed - red gel & all - onto newsprint, then allowing it to dry. The drying process should be done as quickly as possible, before the gel begins to mold. Once completely dry, the seeds can be peeled away cleanly... the dried gel will stick to the newsprint. I always snack on a little of the dried gel, provided that it did not spoil.
Provided that the seed is fully dry, it should be sealed in a moisture-proof container for storage. I use zippered freezer bags, since they are heavier material, and have stronger seals. It helps to squeeze out as much air from the bag as possible before sealing, and store the bags in such a way that they do not re-inflate. Excess seed moisture will rapidly reduce seed longevity, so in warm humid environments it may be necessary to complete the drying process using desiccant, or to store the seeds in a cool (but not frozen) environment. Thus far, stored this way in a home with central air conditioning, my bitter melon seeds have had good germination for at least 5 years.
I currently have 5 bitter melon varieties:
- Abashi, from Japan, oblong, smooth warts, dark green.
- Taiwan Large, Chinese type, oblong, light green, smooth warts, slightly longer than Abashi. Originally from Evergreen Seeds.
- Thailand, small w/pointed warts, thinner walls than the others, very bitter, but the shortest DTM & a consistently heavy yield regardless of our fickle Wisconsin summers. This is a friend's favorite for pickling. It is also the most cool-weather tolerant, and has even matured in the cool Pacific Northwest of the U.S. This was originally from Evergreen Seeds, since dropped.
- An unknown Chinese type that I have been stabilizing from a hybrid, cucumber-like melons up to 12" long or more (most are 10-11"), light green, smooth warts, and a
very heavy yield. I have been selecting for length & yield, it is now in its 5th generation, and is nearly stable. Wish I could post a photo, the vines when fully loaded are truly impressive.
- Another unknown Chinese variety (from the same trade as above), with short, top-shaped melons, dark green, smooth warts, exceptionally thick walls, and very mild flavor. Some of these were over a pound last year. Although it was allegedly a hybrid, it was already stable from the first time I grew it, and has remained so. Less vigorous vines than the others, I'm still trying to increase its yield - but the fruit quality is first rate.
Someone sent me seed from a Caribbean variety in trade several tears ago; the seed itself was visibly different than the other varieties I grow, and I was really looking forward to seeing what they produced. Unfortunately, the seed turned out to be completely dead.
I will be trialing a new white variety this year, Taiwan White, from Baker Creek. I've been wanting to try a white variety for years, but up until now, all of the varieties I found were hybrids, and of the India type. This one has smooth warts, and is described as being very low in bitterness.
Each year, I grow two varieties of bitter melon, in a rotation to keep the seed stock healthy. It is a plant that has benefits beyond its culinary & medicinal qualities, and one that I truly enjoy growing. Trellises of bitter melon act as wind breaks, which along with other tall plants, shelter the heat loving plants in the center of my gardens. When in bloom, the flowers perfume the air with a sweet scent, and both attract & control pollinators. It would be a really interesting & effective arbor cover. I tell our young grandchildren that they are "frog cucumbers".
Incidentally, if you find that you have acquired a taste for bitter vegetables, you might be interested in trying Martynia (Devils Claw), and some of the red/orange fruited eggplants.
I plan to pickle a lot this year.
