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Post by glen on Sept 18, 2020 15:56:23 GMT -6
As far as crossing goes. Annuum's cross with Annuum's real easy. Chinense with Chinense real easy. Crossing between species is much less probable, how ever it is possible. About half the seed will turn out to be infertile in an intraspecies cross. So, you have to be cognizant of what you are planting. Keep the Annuum's seperated with a bit of distance. Don't plant jalepeno's near the bell peppers.
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Post by glen on Sept 18, 2020 17:28:57 GMT -6
Bon, here is another video. This one is the best I have found yet. No need for me to add any others. This video also explains distance isolation for peppers. Now, you will need additional information for seed saving for other variety's of veggy's. You must continue watching youtube video's on this subject for each type veggy you wish to save seed from. This video is a webinar from seedsaversexchange.
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Post by glen on Sept 18, 2020 17:30:06 GMT -6
Once you discover the open-pollenated heirloom variety's of peppers you wish to grow, you should be able to now save all your own seed. Use the strongest plants and the best looking pods.
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Post by macmex on Sept 19, 2020 5:28:03 GMT -6
That was, indeed, and excellent video. The Internet is so full of misinformation and "experts" who are only just learning while they instruct others. This was excellent. He was being extra careful, as there are exceptions to so many rules (almost always unfortunate exceptions). A person could not go wrong doing exactly what that video says.
I know that intra species crossing can occur, but with the varieties I've grown for the last 15 years, I have never seen it. Now, to the "unfortunate exception rule:" one cannot assume the same for other varieties, and possibly couldn't assume this would work for the same varieties in a different environment.
In 2012 my brother in NJ purchased 20 varieties of c. chinense peppers from a nursery in NJ. He planted them in a long, 3' wide garden in his back yard. I dropped in that fall and got to sample each one, saving a few pods from a couple of my favorites. That's when I got my Murupi Amarela seed. I grew out at least two of these peppers the next summer and had about 25% crosses. Now, that's terrible for seed saving, but the good news was that every cross was a wonderful pepper itself.
I simply saved seed from true to type plants which were not right up against a crossed plant. The following year I had 100% pure plants.
Now for seed saving standards: the physical protection this fellow recommends is great. But if a person hasn't used such measures, they shouldn't necessarily discard what they produce. Just beware that crosses can occur and improve measures in the coming year. The only thing worse than poor seed saving technique is NO SEED SAVING at all. Of course, there is no harm at all, discarding seed, if it can be easily obtained in pure form. That would be just fine.
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Post by glen on Sept 19, 2020 16:24:51 GMT -6
George, like you said, there usually is no problem using crossed seed. Especially if it is between super-hot peppers or something like that. The problem lies when you are growing for example, Carolina Reaper, and it crosses with Ajicito. Both are Chinense peppers and can easily cross. You are going to get a very mild pepper out of that cross when you were expecting spicy tasty Carolina Reapers. Or, you will get spicy ajicito's when you were expecting nice sweet ahi's. Without a doubt you want to plant sweet peppers far away from the spicy peppers. As I said, I will be experimenting with the barrier bags this grow. I am raising the standard. Valuable seed must be protected.
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Post by rdback on Sept 24, 2020 17:49:50 GMT -6
Bon, I was processing some peppers today and thought of a couple more things.
First, if you didn't get the chance to isolate some pods, try to save seeds from pods located in the interior of the plant, not those around the outside. The thinking is the flowers along the outside of the plant will be hit first by pollinators. They'll wipe their feet on those flowers (maybe creating crosses) first, then go inside the plant to the inner flowers. They will carry less pollen from foreign plants, and more pollen from the outer flowers of the same plant. This will help reduce cross-pollination.
And second, when you're collecting seed from a pod, actually remove the seed from the placenta, so you're only drying seeds. If you leave them connected, they will continue to absorb moisture from the placenta.
Seeds removed from pod, but still attached to placenta.
Placenta after seeds removed.
Clean seed, on plastic lid for drying.
P.S. Ya probably want to spread the seeds out into a single layer. They'll dry faster.
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Post by rdback on Sept 25, 2020 8:17:21 GMT -6
...You see that seed on the outer edge of the lid with the brown in the center within your photo? That's a bad one right?...
Yepper, that one's probably not viable. But, if it's all ya got, throw it in the dirt and see what happens. Ya just never know lol.
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Post by denweave on Feb 6, 2021 1:15:18 GMT -6
Question- could we use a dehydrator to ensure we fully dried the seeds?
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Post by rdback on Feb 6, 2021 8:24:12 GMT -6
Question- could we use a dehydrator to ensure we fully dried the seeds?
Yes, IF you can control the temperature of your dehydrator. Set the temp to no greater than 105F and your seeds should remain viable (assuming they are mature seeds). Dehydrators that don't have a thermostat can run as high as 160F, which will kill the seeds.
I've grown many a plant from dehydrated seeds.
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Post by denweave on Feb 6, 2021 9:00:41 GMT -6
Good to know. My dehydrator does not have a temp control so I better stay away from using it.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2021 15:33:54 GMT -6
Question- could we use a dehydrator to ensure we fully dried the seeds? Hey! Welcome to the forum! I think Rick noted he does briefly. Hopefully, someone will come by and share experience. It could be risky without temp control and due attention.
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Post by denweave on Feb 7, 2021 0:21:37 GMT -6
I think you are right Bon. I will just have to use the sun and a fan this year.
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Post by heavyhitterokra on Feb 7, 2021 13:44:26 GMT -6
I use a heating pad to germinate the seeds in my seed starter pots. It's just an old heating pad from the drug store, nothing special. I wonder if something like that might work to dehydrate your seeds right after harvest? The drugstore variety heating pads only reach about 105 degrees, so very little chance of killing any of your seeds.
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Post by Tucson Grower on Nov 12, 2021 23:28:39 GMT -6
Question- could we use a dehydrator to ensure we fully dried the seeds?Added a link to desiccant info That's what we used at NMSU in the late 1980's. It worked fine, as far as I could tell. To avoid any possible damage from heat I personally mix any damp seed with a blend of fine and coarse silica sand, spread them out in the sun to dry, then after warming in the sun I gently knead the seed/sand mix together, just enough so the sand rubs off anything on the outside of the seed that is unwanted, then using different size screening, separate the seed from the chaff and sand, then place the clean and mostly dry seed in paper envelopes, place the paper envelopes in zip-sealed plastic bags, with some indicator desiccant, to remove any remaining traces of moisture, replacing any desiccant that becomes too moist (the indicator desiccant shows that), and continue drying until you are certain the seed are as dry as possible. The desiccant will remain active, indefinitely, once moisture levels have stabilized. Using desiccant, you should be able to get the seeds extremely dry without adding any heat. My favorite desiccant is silica gel with the orange/green indicator dye. Silica Gel Desiccant.
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Post by heavyhitterokra on Nov 14, 2021 7:27:52 GMT -6
Thanks, for posting that. All good information. Things like this would be good in the tips and tricks section too. I wouldn't have ever thought of using the sand that way to remove the goo from the seeds. I probably wouldn't have thought of using the screen to separate seeds from sand either.
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